Morning!
I was wondering if you guys would mind helping me understand how I should be setting my monitor up and which colour profiles I should be using. Bearing in mind i don't have the spare money to buy a monitor calibration setup right now i'm going to have to make do for the time being with the monitors settings themselves.
I've always felt that my images when printed out seemed darker and more saturated than they did on the screen. Thinking it was my printer I would just lighten them to the point they looked washed out and then reprint, repeating until I was happy with the print. Having recently been given a new printer it does exactly the same so I'm guessing its my monitor that might be at fault.
I'll be very honest and say that I have tried to research this on the internet but it's going over my head and there are so many different opinions I'm getting a little lost.
I thought if I were to ask for help here I could get a dialogue going and be able to ask for clarification.
Currently I'm using an iMac running Mavericks which is set to Adobe RGB (1998) under the display settings.
I'm not doing any professional work where I need to check colours with clients or anything for the time being I just wish my printed images looked more like they do on screen.
thanks in advance for any help you might be able to pass my way.
Stacy
Just came across this for anybody interested in Monitor Calibration and Color Profiles
http://cdn.datacolor.com/eBook_2013_...te1013-v05.pdf
Hi Guys,
Im new to the forum and have a tricky question.
Ive been given a large amount of designs that have been colour separated for use by screen printers.
I will go through the image details below but history of the images is sketchy to say the elast.
The layer shows a black and white image and has been saved in grayscale mode.
There are numerous colour channels which are unselected. When you select them all the colour fills in gradually until its looks great. But this doesnt actually change anything eg Layer, so that is always black and white.
How can I get the printed output to look like the image when all colour layers are selected.
Im not screen printing, I am digitally printing so dont need sep colours.
I have attached an example design so you can understand better what I mean.
Any help will be massively appreciated guys.
If I can find an easy way to do this I will hopefully get a script designed that will convert 100s in bulk. Fingers crossed as right now Im lost.
Thanks guys
Neil
I recently got a third monitor for my extended desktop, and I currently have a Razer/Green & Black theme for my setup. I have a Razer keyboard, mouse, and mouse pad. And this is currently my desktop:
I don't like the left or middle screen much, and I was hoping someone could do some editing and make me a better wallpaper. Any help would be appreciated, and I would be willing to pay a fair price for a cool triple monitor wallpaper (I think the resolution needs to be 5760 x 1080). I'll post a couple images that I like, and that could be included in the wallpaper.
If anyone would be willing to help, feel free to get creative and use whatever images you like or think would make the wallpaper look cool. Thanks again to anyone who can help me.
Just something I'd like to share, if you want to calibrate dual monitors with Spyder4 Express which states
"Simple Affordable Solution for color calibrating a single display"
So in theory you can only calibrate a single monitor, well not true!
Well here's a way to calibrate dual monitors using the same hardware, it's easy and works.
http://photoshopcs.com/cheap_dual_mo...on_spyder.html
I'm not in any way promoting the above, just bought this for my own benefit, It may work for other products and hopefully so. Just wanted to share for people in a similar situation as me.
Hi,
I have a colour image of a scene and several greyscale images of similar scenes.
I would like to use the colour information from the colour scene and add it to the greyscale images,thereby making them colour also.
I am sure there is more than one way to do this, but the way I imagined it would work was to some how sample all the colours and then map them individually to the 256 (or more ?) grey levels.
The colous wouldn't change because I would choose a 'standard' image but the greyscale images would all be different.
I have tried searching the net for info but I don't think I am entering the correct terms, so any guidance would be appreciated.
thanks.
Hi!
I have a dilemma with a high resolution picture that I want to use on a large screen. The problem is the screen has a low resolution which seem to distort the picture sometimes. Also I would like to zoom in the picture.
The monitor is a 47 inch HP LD4720tm sporting a 1,920 by 1,080 resolution. So the resoultion is like an ordinary desktop monitor but the size is more than double that. In other words, the pixel density (ppi) is much smaller.
The picture is of a clock. Size is about 670X670 pixels. I cropped out this clock from a larger 12MP Raw format Nikon picture. The cropped out clock looks something like this (my real image is copyright protected but this is very similar with 700x644px):
(http://www.stanleylondon.com/ClockShipsBellSml1.jpg )
On the screen this picture should take up a fixed size of 170X170 pixels (ie about 10% of the monitor).
The first way I did this was to simply in Photoshop Elements save the 670X670 picture as a png and with dimensions 170X170 pixels. ("Save for web" to get it as small in size as possible and chose png and 170X170). Then I put the 170X170 pic on the background canvas. It looks very nice. However, when I zoomed in the numbers and other details look very jagged or blurry.
So now I tried with the larger resolution 670X670px. I put this on the background too, and as it should only take up 170X170px, I clicked it and dragged to resize it. But this picture looks much worse than the 170X170 pic. I suppose the 170X170 pic perfectly fits the 170X170 space while the 670X670px is distorted. I mean, for the 170X170 pic there will be one pixel for each monitor point. When I do the exact same comparison on a 21 inch 1920X1080 monitor they look equally good, so it must be due to the low pixel density of the 48 inch monitor where the human eye can see each pixel.
However, now when I zoom in the details for the 670X670px were clearly visible.
I tried a few other resoultions like 360X360 and 270X270 (I resized the 670X670 pic to these sizes) and both png and jpeg. They also looked worse in normal view but of course in zoomed view they displayed more details than the 170X170 pic.
My dilemma now is how to get an image that will look good both when zoomed in and when in 100% zoom (normal view) on this large screen. Is there a way to do this. Eg like resizing to a resolution larger than 170X170 that will also look good in normal view.
Thanks.
In a bygone day I remember being able to import my hp scanned images directly into Ps. Something happened; I got a new printer or something and I was forced to use my flash drive to scan images to. I put off setting it back up for so long that I think, maybe the option isn't even available any more; or is it?
It just occurred to me that maybe that's when I was using PsE, and is why I don't see any printer preferences.
Hey Guys,
I am a freelance Photographer who primarily shoots night events (shows, clubs, etc.) and I am having some issues with my images coming out darker when I save them as JPEGS. I am shooting with a Canon 60D (Adobe RGB) and at the moment editing the photos in the Adobe RAW Editor (Adobe RGB). When I am editing the photos in the RAW Editor they appear to be in 24bit, but when I save them as JPEG (Adobe RGB) they appear to be more like 32bit (much much darker). Any ideas as to why this is happening? I would really just like the finished product to be what I'm seeing in my RAW Editor.
---> Side note, I just realized the images are only darker when viewing them through Windows Photo Viewer and Facebook (where the photos will primarily be housed). Does anyone know why the images are vastly darker when viewed through these applications? This is definitely a viewer problem. So how can I make my images look how they are supposed to while using things like Facebook?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
The first screenshot of the image in the RAW Editor, the second of the JPEG in Widows Photo Viewer.
***UPDATE***
None of my replies appear to be going through so I'll just post them here. Before posting this thread I attempted to save them as sRGB but it still had the same affect. I also just tried Steve's Save for Web method and have the same issue.
I believe I am saving them properly as JPGs (I will supply a screen shot in this post). MrTom, when I say 32bit what I meant was if you are editing an image in Photoshop and you change the color mode from 8bit to 32bit, it looks similar to the drastic darkness as seen with 32bit.
A mini solution I have discovered is to +70 the Black levels, this evens out the photos to roughly what I was going for once they save. I would greatly prefer an actual fix, but this will do if all else fails.
Thanks for all the feedback!
Hello friends
Is there a way in Photoshop to lock and move all panels as one unit to an external monitor, including the options and the tools?
For now I have to move them one by one.
thanks
Jonathan
how can i use photoshop to make a tooth colour analysis?
here you can see a print out from a device that does that...but i want to achieve that with ps.
-i take a picture of my patient with a gray card and ringlight to set the correct white balance.
http://dentopolis.org/temp/001.jpg
-i also have a picture of a objective colors also taken with gray card so the white balance of those two pictures should be the same.
http://dentopolis.org/temp/kolornik.jpg
now:
1)how can i tell what is the major/main/single colour of the tooth like he
http://dentopolis.org/temp/002.jpg
2)how can i tell what are three colours of the tooth like here (same as above but three segments):
http://dentopolis.org/temp/003.jpg
3)how can i achieve such posterized color map? http://www.mht.ch/images/micro_shademap.jpg
http://dentopolis.org/temp/004.jpg
thank you in advance for help