B&w Horizontal Banding Comes And Goes When Viewing In Ps6

Hey Guys,

I am a freelance Photographer who primarily shoots night events (shows, clubs, etc.) and I am having some issues with my images coming out darker when I save them as JPEGS. I am shooting with a Canon 60D (Adobe RGB) and at the moment editing the photos in the Adobe RAW Editor (Adobe RGB). When I am editing the photos in the RAW Editor they appear to be in 24bit, but when I save them as JPEG (Adobe RGB) they appear to be more like 32bit (much much darker). Any ideas as to why this is happening? I would really just like the finished product to be what I'm seeing in my RAW Editor.

---> Side note, I just realized the images are only darker when viewing them through Windows Photo Viewer and Facebook (where the photos will primarily be housed). Does anyone know why the images are vastly darker when viewed through these applications? This is definitely a viewer problem. So how can I make my images look how they are supposed to while using things like Facebook?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

The first screenshot of the image in the RAW Editor, the second of the JPEG in Widows Photo Viewer.

***UPDATE***

None of my replies appear to be going through so I'll just post them here. Before posting this thread I attempted to save them as sRGB but it still had the same affect. I also just tried Steve's Save for Web method and have the same issue.

I believe I am saving them properly as JPGs (I will supply a screen shot in this post). MrTom, when I say 32bit what I meant was if you are editing an image in Photoshop and you change the color mode from 8bit to 32bit, it looks similar to the drastic darkness as seen with 32bit.

A mini solution I have discovered is to +70 the Black levels, this evens out the photos to roughly what I was going for once they save. I would greatly prefer an actual fix, but this will do if all else fails.

Thanks for all the feedback!

I am trying to replace the background color of the image below. I am using the replace color tool. I use the first eyedropper tool to select the color. Then the second eyedropper+ tool to select the shaded area. I use a fuzziness of 50-70. I enter the replacement color using a color code. The color is replaced, however the final result is a slight different color than the color code I enter. When I check the end result using the eyedropper tool, I can see a different color code. Why does this happen? What other method can I use to replace the color with a specific color? Thanks

We have a project where the final media will have a color palette limited to 454 colors. We have a conversion from the media's color selection to RGB. So, from an XML file I created a CSV file, meaning I have both if necessary, of 454 colors with a name and their RGB values.


I need to create a color library so that I can put an image in photoshop and then change it to indexed color so that it ONLY uses these 454 colors.


Is there a way to convert or compile my csv/xml file to a photoshop ACT file? I feel like there must be. I do *not* want to enter 454 colors by hand.


Thanks so much for any advice. Attached is a screenshot for reference.




JH

hello.i'm looking for the most accurate color selection method in photoshop for L,a,b color mode. what i want to achieve is to know the values for L,a and b that would let me enter those values to excel file which will tell me which shade is the closest. so those shaders values are the most important. thebestcpu said:
if you use a PS tool that uses the tolerance option, it has inherent limitations as such a tool selects on an RGB math equation that do not exactly reflect what you see with you eyes (e.g. it is color data based not luminosity based. That means the blue component of RGB in selecting an area gets too much weight.


so which tool works well on Lab color mode?
how would you get the Lab values from those shaders to be accurate? the tooth neck part is the most intense color because of thickness while the edge is the most transparent.
1) should i wand select the whole shader (without white blow out spots) and filter -> average?
2) should i pick the color from 1/2 or 1/3 height? maybe i should draw a horizontal line and select 1 point for each shader in the middle of it's long axis?
look at D3 and D4 how short color range it is.
Attachment 55717
this photo should be taken with gray card to set the white balance correctly.

Hi everybody,
I'l like just to ask what do ypu suggest about choosing a versatile Color Space for Color Correction for these actual times in witch we have the necessity to deliver a lot of graphic asset formats (for Web and Print and Video...).
So,we should be work in Photoshop, to make Color Correction, assign a good Color profile (color space) as standard sRGB, or better, with Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGA as top quality.
Only the end, if we are ready with CC process, we should save some different .psd file versions as CMYK (for print issue), Rec. 709, (if we have to use photo in video), sRBG for web.
Is it a good choice/workflow, or I'm wrong...?

Many thanks for a reply!

Cheers

Hello,

I am trying to help a neighbor with a birthday invitation in CS4. For some reason, when we print the image, the text color is missing. We are trying to print the image on pink paper. The text layers are a silver color. No matter what color we change the text layers to, it won't print them in the chosen color. It just shows up as the pink paper. I have attached a screen shot.

Could anyone please tell me what I am doing wrong?

I am going to re-paint my motorcycle and I dont know which color I should color it. Thats why I am looking for a person with some color-eye which can help me decide the color. I will pay 30$ for the best image. I want to color the wheels, plastic parts (idk. The name in English but the "Covers") and the metal parts bars etc. Ofc. You can also edit other parts which you think would

I want to change orange color to red color.
I use Magic Wand Tool to select orange color and Paint Bucket Tool.
But edges not smooth.

Can anyone suggest me the best way to change color ?

Thank you

Lets say I have a photo of a vase of flowers on a neutral gray background. The background has reproduced off
color. After adjusting the color back to neutral gray I want to do he following.


1. Save the adjustments made to the image.

2. Apply that adjustment to a different image of the same subject.

Working in Photoshop cs6

I am having an issue with getting a realistic look to an image where I need to make a section that is near solid black for the most part, be a lighter gray while keeping the shading/highlight transition. See image for what I am talking about. Is there a way to do this in a few steps? I would assume it would be some combination of the brush tool with a blend mode? Though I have quickly tried this without success. Of course curves is out since it causes nasty banding real quickly. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.