I have a problem with photoshop. Everything I do gets pixelated.
When I paste or place an object from Illustrator CS6 I choose place as smart object and as soon as I pace it it gets pixelated. I have tried with and without the anti-aliased box checked. When the box is checked photoshop pixelates the image and when the box is not checked the image looks really strange and digital with the pixels showing. All curves that were smooth and nice in Illustrator looks jagged and strange.
When I try and draw a shape in photoshop it looks in the layer-list like it's a shape layer but the object is heavily pixeled.
I have tried opening a file created in Autocad (by using dwg to PDF) and opening it as a smart object in Photoshop. Everything is pixelated.
When starting a new file in PS I have a 300 pix per inch resolution, 16 bits RGB color, sRGB IEC61966-2.1 as my color profile and square pixels as my pixel aspect ratio.
Under general preferences I have the box for "Place or drag raster images as smart objects" (I have also tried without it). I have also tried with the box for "snap vector tools and transform to pixel grid" on and off.
Regardless of what i do photoshop still pixelates everything. I have no idea what to do. Could there be some sort of setting that I have overlooked?
Hi everyone,
This is my first thread asking for help but I desperately need it. I have these photos of buildings, and I need to make a preview of them how they would look if they were wrapped with currogated steel or steel panels.
Up to now, I've tried this method:
*) Create a shape on the object where the corrugated steel is going to take place. I'll name this shape Q1
*) Create another squared shape on top of it (Q2) , give this second shape the Corrugated Steel pattern and convert it to a smart object.
*) Use Transform--->Distort on this smart object to shape it like the Q1 shape .
It doesn't look that bad, but it's pretty unrealistic. If anyone could suggest any better method, I would be soo grateful
You can see the pictures attached.
Hi Everyone. Im certainly not new to Photoshop. I have been using it since 1998 everyday. I am a graphic designer.
Think the reason I never come across this problem usually is because I make all my artwork for print in Indesign.
EG bring vectors in and images etc.
This particular project I have loads of textures that go over vector smart objects in Photoshop. As part of the look I need these textures and light leaks flooding across over the vectors I have placed in Photoshop.
Its a Zfold brochure and have built the whole thing in Photoshop due to the style I wish it to look.
MY PROBLEM
I have exported a 1x front of brochure and 1x Back as a Photoshop PDF and placed into indesign so I can use my fold and crop marks. This makes the live type that was in photoshop perfect and cant tell the difference that it was originally in Photoshop, it looks Indesign quality on my laser printer. The vector smart objects though are really blurry. Is there any way to keep the smart objects from rasterizing when saving in a file format?
Hi folks, newbie to the board. I'm using Photoshop CS6 and have hit an issue that I can't get to the bottom of and was hoping someone could help.
I've completed an image for a client. The original involves many layers, and I have got to the point when I want to merge everything down into a PDF for them to send to their printers.
Problem I am having is that when I try to directly save as a PDF or merge down the layers in a copy of my main PSD file, I am losing certain layer styles.
I have tried creating a blank layer below an offending layer and hitting CTRL + E, I have tried creating a blank layer, hiding all but the offending layer and blank layer and merging visible, I have tried Layer - Rasterize Layer Style, I have tried turning the layer into a smart object and then rasterizing (I lost the layer style as soon as I turned it into a smart object, even though it is still present in the smart object itself), and I have tried turning the layer into a group and merging the group. I have also tried saving the file in a number of different formats to no avail. I don't know what else I can try and why none of this has worked! I've also tried right clicking on the FX in the layer palette and chosen "Create Layers" at which point I get a dialog: "Some aspects of the effects cannot be reproduced with layers", and I get the same result. Most noticeable style that disappears is the drop shadow.
Weird thing is this isn't the case for every layer. I've particularly noticed it happens on text layers that have been text warped. However I've tried rasterizing them before trying to merge and that hasn't helped so I can't see how that is the problem.
I hope someone can help, I am totally stumped. If it makes a difference the mode is CMYK Color, 8 bit.
James
Hello,
l would really appreciate some help since I am coming to a deadline for printing some material. My problem seems to me like it should be quite eas, I have come close to a sufficient solution on my own but still not quite good enough resolution to print 24"x18" signs. In any case my issue is that I have an old design file of mine for a 5"x3" sticker with a logo on it as seen. When I try to enlarge it to the 24"x18" size the edges are way too pixelated. I have tried different selection techniques as well as refining the edges but no luck to make a high res version as yet. It's a rather simple shape and frankly I don't even care if it is redrawn to match at high res. In any case here is a copy of the logo in its native size on a 24x18 photoshop canvas. There is an image and an attachment Photoshop file, I would greatly appreciate it if someone can download the photoshop file and repost it with their efforts.
Thanks,
Dino
24x18 canvas with low res hook.psd
Hi,
I am learning Photoshop in the hope of printing posters. I have questions regarding printing. Originally, when you create an image the resolution is set to 72 pixels/inch. I have learned I need to switch that to 300 pixel/inch.
1)Will I have to recreate all my images from scratch in 300 resolution?
2)Do I lose a lot of quality on the final product if i convert 72 -> 300.
3)My images are 11x17, when i hit 100% and view rulers, it shows my image at roughly a 3:1 ratio, why does it do this?
4)Can I view what a final printed image will look like with in Photoshop?
5)How do I preserve quality when switching to 300 resolution?
6)Say I use an image that is originally 600x600, will switching to 300 resolution make the new image horrible?
I may have more questions with as these get answered,
Thank you,
Geokatz
I have a single smart object which will act as a texture layer. This texture layer is linked to over 100 documents, when I want to put a new texture in this smart object I save it then open up 1 of the 100 documents, it has the yellow warning symbol and I have to click "Update All Modified Content".
My question is , is there a way to automatically update the content so I don't have to open 100 documents and click update on each one? I thought the whole point of a linked smart object is so that it saves time by not making me open up each document and clicking update.
If you know for certain that this is impossible then also let me know so I can stop searching.
Many Thanks
Tom
Hi.
This is my first post here, I'm French, so excuse any English mistake i may do.
I'm not an artist / designer / ..., still new about using image software editing like photoshop.
So i downloaded Photoshop CC to try it because i wanted to do something on my spare time.
I want to render digitaly a card collection based on a online Collectible Card Game (Duel of champions if you wanna know).
For this I downloaded their card art from their site.
Then i want to add several effect / filter to render them nicely.
So i read and watch many tutorial in this purpose.
I ended with a good result for 1 card.
Here is an example :
So what i did :
I get a source card art image, adding its red border, embossed it to get relief, adding a gloss effect in 3 different layers (the card art, the border and the gloss effect). Than i duplicate all this layers, swap them vertically and moved down to get a reflection.
I added a gradient to this new group of layers to have a nice fading effect to the reflection.
As I do not want to redo all the process again and again if I change main the source card Art, I want the reflexion to automatically update.
This was done using Smart object, both main source card Art and the (vertically swapped) reflexion card art using the same object storing my different main source card art.
So when i change in this object the main source card art used, it automatically change both the rendered card and its corresponding reflexion.
And then i Added a displacement filter to simulate a water reflection.
And the first problem (solved by now) occurred :
If i want to apply a filter to the group of layers corresponding to the rendered reflexion card, Photoshop have to convert and merged the whole group of layers into another new smart object and then apply a smart filter onto it. That worked but i lost the auto updating of the reflexion as the previous conversion have made Photoshop create in fact a whole new duplicated object storing a my different main source art.
So i partially resolved This by using Smart LINKED object instead of Smart object. I say partially because it is not really fully automated anymore.
Now if I change the main Source card Art to render a new one, I have to "manually" save file / update smart object to get the reflection updated.
I kinda accelerate this using a action performing a batch of saves to get a "save all" options (that clearly miss in photoshop). But for this i still have to open all my smarted linked object in order to apply the "Save All" batch.
But know I want to generalize the process to cards left, and render my whole card collection.
So i created a template based on what i've done so far using in this template Smart LINKED Object for the Main source card art and the reflected one. By the Way I exported the Reflection group in a PSD file, and refered to it as another Smart LINKED Object in my template. Doing so i'm sure Photoshop no more use a temporary PSB object correspond to the converted / merged reflexion Smart Object (remember : created in order to apply a smart Filter on it).
So what Happen now ?
I create a new testing psd file in witch i embed several new smart objects each one is an occurence to my template. Here i have to used smart Object and NOT smart LINKED Object because if so i'll always end up with the same rendered card several times. I have to get Phososhop create it own temporary duplicated object so a modification to one don't affect all the others after "Save All" batch on the corresponding working card.
So with what I have now, if I want to change 1 of the rendered card, i go its corresponding (duplicated) template object and from there i access again my LINKED object storing all my main source card Art.
I change to what source card art I want, and I have to open the reflection smart LINKED Object too in order to apply the "SAve All" batch.
Here is the "fun" (issue) thing : I have to apply the batch 3 time in a row to have the rendered card changed in my main testing psd file. I suppose saving 3 time time propagated the change along the Smart LINKED Object chain.
AND I have to make sure ONLY the corresponding smart (LINKED) Object file are opened before. If another file from a different rendered card is opened too the change will also be propagated to it and so having a duplicated rendered card. (I only want each card rendered once, but using the same template to avoid repetitive work).
So I explained in detail, but maybe not clearly, my situation and the step i went through.
TLDR
To summarize : I have a collections of Card art (jpeg).
I created a Template applying effect to render 1 card.
I created another template appliying same effect to render 1 REFLECTED card.
In both i use the same Smart LINKED Object that Store my collection on Card Art.
I make another Smart LINKED Object in the first template that reference the second one.
So with my first template I can update the rendered card and its rendered reflexion after changing the main source card art in the subsequent smart LINKED Object that store my whole cards art. I have to had all corresponding Smart LINKED Object file OPENED and save them all to have th updated result.
So not really automatic.
Then I want to render my whole card collection with effect and reflexion.
I create in my project a duplicate of my first template for each card to be rendered.
Then I have to open ONLY all subsequent corresponding Smart LINKED(or not) Object file of current working rendered card and change the main source card art, save all the file (several time to propagate change) to properlly update the current rendered card.
I have to do this for EACH of my duplicated template in order to render EACH of my cards.
Definitively not automatic process, and prone to errors.
Do you know a way to fully automatically render my card collection ? The only thing I want to do is chose one time the main source card art for each rendered card.
Finally another way to explain this issue and maybe get an answer is to instead explain simply what I want to do :
I have a collection of (jpeg) card art from an online card game.
I want to render them all with effect (gloss, emboss border, faded and water filtered reflection).
I want to do this automatically.
The only thing i manually want to do is chose the card art to be rendered for each of the card i want to render in my collection.
Here is an image of what i want based on what i've, not automatic, done so far :
Thanks for any help from photophop professional here.
Hello! Very much so a noob question . ive done my research and im just here for a very definite tutorial . im learning how to resize images from Big to small. Only problem is i cant seem to keep the high quality resolution . Ive included both images .. the "moonshine" collage is what id like to minimize. The "Whiskey" image is able to be downsized with no resolution loss when i downsize why? ID also like to keep them PNG or transparent in the background .
the moonshine collage image is one i made in photoshop cs6.
id like to make them W:280 pixels H:110 pixels/100 pixels
Theres a screen shot of the photo in place . The GREEN image is the image in low resolution , which i cannot figure why . the other RED image is how id like all my images to appear . There both pretty big original images as well ..
Hi all,
I'm working with a marine imaging lab and have been utilizing Photoshop CC to make area measurements of sediment profile images (SPI) of the sub-seafloor.
Our camera set up utilizes a camera inside of a wedged prism that penetrates the seafloor and takes a photograph of the sedimentary matrix in-situ. The image returned is then manually separated into two layers in photoshop and measured, one layer for the portion of the image penetrating the sediment, and another for the portion of the image showing the water above the seafloor. By selecting each layer and commanding the histogram window to display a pixel count from the selected layer only we establish an area of penetration in out image. Up until today the histogram was giving me a very accurate reading. Today we updated our workflow to utilize 16 bit Adobe RGB images converted to .psd directly from camera raw in 300dpi resolution. Our previous workflow involved converting .raw to .jpeg to .psd in 8 bit, 300dpi resolution. The images look great now but the histogram returns a pixel count of about half of the previously measured values. What is going on here? I can still achieve n accurate pixel count by ctrl clicking my penetration layer and selecting a histogram read from entire image, it still drops a handful of pixels around the marquee but it is much closer to reality.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
-Steve
Hi,
I would like to see pixel values of 16-bit TIFF images in Photoshop CC2014. I'm able se 8-bit (0-255) pixel values using he histogram and info tabs but it seems that when 16-bit images are opened the pixel values are still displayed from 0-255.
I want to do to see this information for scientific purposes, not for typical photo editing. I've read many discussions about the practicality of editing 16-bit images but would like to avoid having my original question overrun by that discussion here. I am specifically looking for differences between pixels with more resolution than 8 bits.
I found one recommendation t check a box stating "show pixel values in 16-bit" or something like that but I have not yet been able to find the checkbox.
Thanks for any help.