I have a grid over my fantasy map.
the grid has 42px by 42px squares.
Each 42px equals 103 meters.
after using the Magic Wand to select my selection i open the histogram and it says the area of selected pixels is 490025.
How do I calculate the area in meters.
Post a stupid mans forum for me. I can photoshop and all, but math is just stupid.
Hey All,
First time post he
I'm using Photoshop CS6, trying to make a selection using a quick mask and a brush. Normally I would put the quick mask on, paint in my selection using a brush preset and then turn off the mask, invert the selection, and use refine selection to make it a new layer.
Now when I turn off the mask, I get the error "no pixels are more than 50% selected". I've seen on other forums that feathering can be a problem, but as far as I know the brush preset I'm using has no feathering. In fact, I just reset the tools and tried again and it still gives me that error. I've definitely selected the correct layer because there's only one to select.
Any advice?
Thanks! M
I've been using Photoshop 10+ years and today, my grid subdivisions will not display. The grid will display, but no subdivisions. For example, I have the grid set to "Gridline Every 1 inch" and those display as normal, but no matter what number I put into "Subdivisions", nothing appears.
Has this happened to anyone else or is there an option to hide grid subdivisions I'm unaware of? Thanks for any help!
EDIT: Ugh, it apparently was the grid color. I had it as a grey, so the subdivisions were not showing up on the white background. After changing color, they displayed normally. Sorry about that.
I have been reworking my real estate photography technique. I am to the point I use a 3 shot 1 stop hdr exposure, I then shoot proper room exposure with a large 650 watt sec nicefoto flash to eliminate all shadows but I am still not happy with the windows. We have lots of mountain view where I live and not seeing the view is a big problem. I was watching some youtube videos and found this video and whatever I do my magic wand tool in cs6 does not seem to work like his nor does ctrl d or delete work like his.The magic wand does not select to the edges like his, I have played with the tolerance to no avail. I have a lot of squiggly remnants looking mess withing the selected area, not clean to the edge. My control d after I make the selection also does nothing, same as delete. Sorry for the dumb questions PS Noob but this is the place I get the good answers. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Hi, what's better when trying to make a selection in Photoshop, Magic Wand or Quick Select.
MrTom gave me some help with Quick Select but I was wondering what the difference was.
Does one do a better job at somethings than the other?
Thanks
I have a problem with photoshop. Everything I do gets pixelated.
When I paste or place an object from Illustrator CS6 I choose place as smart object and as soon as I pace it it gets pixelated. I have tried with and without the anti-aliased box checked. When the box is checked photoshop pixelates the image and when the box is not checked the image looks really strange and digital with the pixels showing. All curves that were smooth and nice in Illustrator looks jagged and strange.
When I try and draw a shape in photoshop it looks in the layer-list like it's a shape layer but the object is heavily pixeled.
I have tried opening a file created in Autocad (by using dwg to PDF) and opening it as a smart object in Photoshop. Everything is pixelated.
When starting a new file in PS I have a 300 pix per inch resolution, 16 bits RGB color, sRGB IEC61966-2.1 as my color profile and square pixels as my pixel aspect ratio.
Under general preferences I have the box for "Place or drag raster images as smart objects" (I have also tried without it). I have also tried with the box for "snap vector tools and transform to pixel grid" on and off.
Regardless of what i do photoshop still pixelates everything. I have no idea what to do. Could there be some sort of setting that I have overlooked?
Hi all,
I'm working with a marine imaging lab and have been utilizing Photoshop CC to make area measurements of sediment profile images (SPI) of the sub-seafloor.
Our camera set up utilizes a camera inside of a wedged prism that penetrates the seafloor and takes a photograph of the sedimentary matrix in-situ. The image returned is then manually separated into two layers in photoshop and measured, one layer for the portion of the image penetrating the sediment, and another for the portion of the image showing the water above the seafloor. By selecting each layer and commanding the histogram window to display a pixel count from the selected layer only we establish an area of penetration in out image. Up until today the histogram was giving me a very accurate reading. Today we updated our workflow to utilize 16 bit Adobe RGB images converted to .psd directly from camera raw in 300dpi resolution. Our previous workflow involved converting .raw to .jpeg to .psd in 8 bit, 300dpi resolution. The images look great now but the histogram returns a pixel count of about half of the previously measured values. What is going on here? I can still achieve n accurate pixel count by ctrl clicking my penetration layer and selecting a histogram read from entire image, it still drops a handful of pixels around the marquee but it is much closer to reality.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
-Steve
I am sorry if I don't use the correct jargon throughout this post, I am a very occasional user of Photoshop!
I have Photoshop CS4 Extended.
I want to create an "inverse" layer.
Here's what I mean:
1) create a new canvas.
2) Choose a large, bold font and write on the canvas (E.g. "Hello World").
3) Select all the letters (using the magic wand tool, click on each letter while holding down the shift key)
4) Invert the selection.
5) Get stuck, no idea what to do next. Try various things and get nowhere!
I want to make a new layer that contains the inverted selection as a shape that I can do things to like any other shape (e.g. in the shape library).
So, for example, I could fill the surrounding area with red and the letters will be transparent.
I've tried converting the inverted selection to a clipping mask, but after that I get in a bugger's muddle.
Perhaps I am going about this in completely the wrong way? Perhaps there's a better way?
Once again, I apologise if I sound like a three-year-old trying to explain something to an adult, but that's the extent of my knowledge of Photoshop!!
Hey Guys,
Is there a way to get photoshop to frame its view upon whatever is selected. ie. If a make a small selection within a canvas, which is off set because I'm working in another area, I'd like to be able to press something & have PS focus/centre its view upon that selection. I'm a 3d Artist & 3ds Max has a feature like this which is activated by pressing the Z key. I appreciate its not as important as within a 3d environment but my hands are getting tired panning & zooming around constantly.
Cheers.
George
Im new to PS idk if this is the right place to post this question but here. I'm following a tuto from http://www.photoshopessentials.com/p...isplay-effect/ i get to step 5 and for some reason when i hold shift and click not all lines stay selected why is this? as you can see in the pic red circles are selected green not selected.
hello.i'm looking for the most accurate color selection method in photoshop for L,a,b color mode. what i want to achieve is to know the values for L,a and b that would let me enter those values to excel file which will tell me which shade is the closest. so those shaders values are the most important. thebestcpu said:
if you use a PS tool that uses the tolerance option, it has inherent limitations as such a tool selects on an RGB math equation that do not exactly reflect what you see with you eyes (e.g. it is color data based not luminosity based. That means the blue component of RGB in selecting an area gets too much weight.
so which tool works well on Lab color mode?
how would you get the Lab values from those shaders to be accurate? the tooth neck part is the most intense color because of thickness while the edge is the most transparent.
1) should i wand select the whole shader (without white blow out spots) and filter -> average?
2) should i pick the color from 1/2 or 1/3 height? maybe i should draw a horizontal line and select 1 point for each shader in the middle of it's long axis?
look at D3 and D4 how short color range it is.
Attachment 55717
this photo should be taken with gray card to set the white balance correctly.